Maastricht – Southernmost Dutch City

DaphneFoo

19 Mar 2017

To be honest, I knew little about Maastricht except that it’s the birthplace of André Rieu, world-renowned Dutch musician. I would soon discover that Maastricht was one of the most besieged cities in Europe for at least twenty times and today, it’s transformed into a university city. It was also in this city that the European Union was conceptualised two and a half decades ago. Maastricht is bisected by The Meuse (Maas River in Dutch), with the old cobbled section of the city situated mainly on the western riverbank. More interesting, the city centre is only 4km away from the Belgian border and 29km away from the German border.

Just back from Leipzig barely two months ago, this time hubby was going to attend the European Vascular Course that was held at the MECC Maastricht. Yup, even I thought it was insane to be travelling to Europe a total of three times (including Rome last September) in the last six months. Anyway, the weather in Maastricht towards the end of winter (early March) was more tolerable as the temperature was ranging between 6-12°C. Daily showers of rain were the only “problem” that could hamper any outdoor plans (Tip: prepare umbrellas or ponchos if you’re visiting around this time).

Flight

This trip was fully sponsored and the business class ticket from Kuala Lumpur to Amsterdam on Qatar Airways came up to a whopping RM16855.38 per person inclusive of taxes. Well, we could only dream of enjoying such a privilege once in a lifetime. There was a short period of layover at Hamad International Airport, the same airport we were at six months ago. The only remarkable thing this time was a complimentary access to the exquisite Al Mourjan Business Lounge. Having had the opportunity to explore several airport lounges around the world, you’ve to take my word for it that Al Mourjan is hands down the best!

Accommodation

Since this was some sort of a business trip, everything was taken care of without any hassle on our part. Four nights accommodation at Apart Hotel Randwyck amounted to €432 (RM2058) inclusive all taxes. Truthfully, it’s just an average hotel which is located approximately 2.5km from the city centre. But, it’s one of the two only hotels within walking distance from the venue of the course, MECC Maastricht.

Transportation

Located 217km south of Amsterdam, Maastricht was not at all difficult to reach, thanks to the well-connected rail system of the Netherlands – Nederlandse Spoorwegen. The commute from Amsterdam Airport Schiphol to Maastricht (changing train at Utrecht) consumed a total duration of two hours and forty minutes. A one-way ticket would cost €26.99 (RM130.75). The speed of the wifi in the train was impressive, thereby making the journey not so dull.

Changing trains at **Utrecht central train station.**

From Maastricht central train station to the hotel was another 25-minute walk (1.8km). Within the city, cycling was definitely the best mode of transportation and the road infrastructure appeared very safe for cyclists. In fact, there were probably more bicycles on the road than cars.

Sightseeing In Maastricht

**Koepelkerk *(Sacred Heart of Jesus Church)* –** A Catholic church aka **The Dome Church** that was built between 1921-1953. Its colossal structure took us by surprise as we walked out of the Maastricht central train station, reminiscent of the basilicas in Rome.

**Bonnefantenmuseum –** Located at Céramique on the eastern riverbank of The Meuse *(Maas River),* this is a museum of fine arts.

**Maaspunttoren *(Maas Point Tower)* –** Built in the 13th century, this medieval tower is part of the old city wall in the neighbourhood of Wyck.

**Waterpoortje *(Simon Mertens Gate)* –** This 13th-century medieval structure is the water gate that was used for accessing the city from The Meuse *(Maas River).*

**De Vijf Koppen (The Five Heads) –** This is the first bastion of the city wall fortification in the neighbourhood of Jekerkwartier that was built in the 13th century.

**Helpoort *(Hell’s Gate)* –** A huge gate with two towers – Jekertoren *(Jeker Tower),* built in the 13th century, it is the oldest city gate in the Netherlands. A row of old cannons can be seen along its rampart – Onze Lieve Vrouwewal *(Our Lady Vrouwewal),*

Walking through Helpoort *(Hell’s Gate)* into the cobbled Sint Bernardusstraat *(Saint Bernard Street).*

**Basiliek van Onze Lieve Vrouwe *(Basilica of Our Lady)* –** Built in the 11th century, this stunning Roman catholic basilica is possibly the oldest church in Maastricht.

**Stokstraat *(Stick Street)* –** This street is where archeological excavations have shown that several buildings from the middle and late Roman period were built across it. After going through expensive rejuvenation, it is a popular place for luxury shopping today.

**De Bisschopsmolen –** Chanced upon this old mill with a water-operated wheel in its backyard. Next to it is a bakery with a cafe and museum.

**Oude Minderbroederskerk *(First Franciscan Church)* –** The oldest surviving Franciscan church that was built within the old city wall at the end of the 13th century.

**Nederlands Gereformeerde Kerk *(Dutch Reformed Church)* –** Located opposite the Old Minderbroederskerk *(First Franciscan Church),* this baroque style church building was originally known as the Walloon Church *(French Church).*

Augustijnenkerk *(Augustinian Church) –* Located along The Meuse *(Maas River),* this baroque church was originally built as a monastery for the Order of Augustinian.

**Mosae Forum –** The most popular shopping centre that is located between Markt *(Market Square)* and The Meuse *(Maas River).*

**Markt *(Market Square)* –** The best-known market in Maastricht, set up here every Wednesday and Friday from 9am to 4pm. In the middle of it is the Stadhuis van Maastricht *(Hall of Maastricht),* its historic town hall, which has a bell that chimes every 30 minutes.

**Sint-Matthiaskerk *(Saint Matthias Church)* –** Built in the 14th-16th century along Boschstraat (leads to Markt), this church is dedicated to the apostle Matthias.

**Boekhandel Dominicanen *(Dominicans Bookstore)* –** Occupying the former 13th-century Dominicanenkerk *(Dominicans Church),* it is undoubtedly one of the coolest bookstores in the world with a cafe within, a definite must-see in Maastricht.

**Vrijthof –** Largest and best-known square in Maastricht with the Protestant’s Sint-Janskerk *(Saint John’s Church)* on the left and the Catholic’s Basiliek van Sint Servaas *(Basilica of Saint Servatius)* on the right.

**Universiteit Maastricht *(Maastricht University)* –** Founded in 1976, it is the second youngest Dutch university. Seen here is the building which houses the Rechtsgeleerdheid *(Faculty of Law).*

**Rivier de Jeker met Poortgebouw *(River Jeker with Gatehouse)* –** Chanced upon this amazing little house that sits above the tiny River Jeker.

**Stadsmuur *(City Wall)* –** Part of Maastricht’s remaining fortifications that were built over the centuries.

**Henri Hermanspark –** Walking through this park which has a deer park and aviary was like walking through a zoo, except that this was free.

**Fort Sint Pieter *(Saint Pieter Fort)* –** A hexagonal fortification full of tunnels and casemates. It was in this spot that Louis the XIV’s forces breached the walls of Maastricht. A combination ticket for both this fort and Grotten Noord *(North Caves)* costs €10.20 (RM48.20).

**Grotten Noord *(North Caves)* –** A labyrinth of caves beneath Sint-Pietersberg *(Mount Saint Peter),* measuring over 80km long that was excavated by miners over a few centuries for limestone. Top left is one of the many drawings that can be found in the caves. Bottom right is the Rijksbewaarplaats *(National Storage Facility)* No. 9 which kept Rembrandt’s famous Nachtwache *(Night Watch)* safe during World War II.

**Eerste Nederlandse Cement Industrie *(First Dutch Cement Industry)* –** View of the gigantic quarry from a skybridge that overhangs it. On the left are the tunnels that lead to Grotten Zonneberg *(Zonneberg Caves).* This is a must-see and it is located just 1km south of Grotten Noord *(North Caves).*

**Statue of D’Artagnan –** Dedicated to famous musketeer, Captain-Lieutenant Charles de Batz-Castelmore d’Artagnan, who was killed during the French siege in 1673.

**Sint Martinuskerk *(Saint Martin’s Church)* –** This net-gothic church is probably the tallest structure on the eastern riverbank of The Meuse.

Eateries

Hubby’s course ended quite late almost everyday, thus preventing a more adventurous food exploration in the city. Furthermore, most of the days had been pretty wet which lasted for quite a significant number of hours. The best and only option around MECC Maastricht was Bar Bizonder in Hotel NH Maastricht, where we dined thrice. It served a wide range of international cuisines and the quality of which was excellent. A decent meal would average around €15 (RM70.80).

It’s ironic to end up in a Mediterranean restaurant while exploring the city on one evening, which was certainly unplanned but we were left with no choice but to seek shelter in this restaurant when the rain started pouring. So why not just have dinner, right? It turned out that to have dinner at Laus Mediterranean Kitchen wasn’t a bad decision after all. You might want to check out this restaurant that is located nearby the Onze-Lieve-Vrouweplein (Square of Our Lady), the next time you’re in Maastricht.

Peculiar Things

Perhaps due to its longstanding history and proximity to the United Kingdom, the Dutch are rather eloquent in English. I don’t find any problems at all communicating with most of them. This information should give you the peace of mind when travelling to Maastricht and I believe the same applies to the rest of the Netherlands.

What about drinking directly from the tap? As in most of Western Europe, tap water in the Netherlands is safe for consumption. However, most restaurants will still not serve you a free glass of tap water. You’ll only get bottled water (of course then you have to pay). I’ve written so much about this important asset in my previous posts on Rome and Leipzig. Interestingly, I found a helpful illustration that summarizes it.

Just like Johann Sebastian Bach is to Leipzig, André Rieu has also made Maastricht famous through classical music. Having said that, André travels around the world so extensively that his sensational Johann Strauss Orchestra only performs at the Vrijthof, Maastricht in July. Missed it!

NOTES:

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